Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Geggianello Toscano Rosso 2001

A "baby Super-Tuscan" if you will: 75% Sangiovese, 25% Ciliegiolo & Malvasia Nera with one year spent in French Oak barrique. Red cherries, violets, and pepper on the nose. Earthy with notes of tea leaves, tobacco, and saddle leather. Medium bodied, good acidity, and well balanced. And pronouncing the producer's name is fun too!

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Piemontese Winemakers' Dinner

Well-paired wine dinners with regional themes are relatively common in Burlington. But opportunities to meet and dine with world-reknown winemakers and producers are far and few between in northern Vermont. That is why the Piemontese Winemakers' Dinner at Trattoria Delia this Thursday, January 17th is such a rare and special opportunity for those who love Italian wine and food. Restaurant guests will enjoy a five course meal accompanied by wine pairings from Broglia, Pecchenino, Ca Viola, and Damilano. Just as importantly, everyone will get the chance to meet the producers or winemakers themselves and to hear them describe their own wines and winemaking philosophies. With this star line-up of producers, dinner should be quite memorable. How could truffles and Barolo not be?

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Begali Valpolicella Ripasso "Vigneto La Cengia" 2005

The usual suspects from Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. Aged in large, Slavonian Oak barrels for one year. Bright red fruits, plums, and pipe tobacco on the nose; chocolate-covered cherries & blackberries and subtle herbal qualities on the palate with a smooth, pleasant finish. Not heavy handed and well balanced with great tension. An elegant ripasso wine from fruit grown biodynamically.

In Vino Veritas

People frequently ask me if all I drink is Italian wine. The truth is that I enjoy drinking wines from all over the world and I take every opportunity to do so. However, as the manager of an Italian restaurant with an obsession for almost everything Italian, the majority of wines I drink are Italian. As a function of my profession and my penchant for drinking, eating, traveling, and driving "Italian style", I have developed a certain affinity for and familiarity with Italian wine.

As for the rest of the wine world, I am a big fan of many wines and producers from the Pacific Northwest, I am very impressed with the quality of wines coming out of Argentina and Chile, Spanish wines continue to amaze me, and I love the white scene in Germany and Austria.

For example, I still have three empty wine bottles from Thanksgiving sitting on my office shelf that I've been meaning to blog about for a while. Every year I marvel at how limited and myopic Thanksgiving wine recommendations usually are. Every year it is the same thing: Pinot Noir or a Burgundy, Red Zinfandel if you are going to be uber-American about it, or perhaps Beaujolais Nouveau or another Novello. Sometimes I feel that red wine is forced onto poultry, largely because big, barrel-aged whites have gotten such a bad rap from the extreme, flabby, buttery world of California Chardonnay. Despite my efforts to convince my family that we should drink a big, aromatic white with our autumn feast, Pinot Noir won out. We had three, excellent, California Pinot Noirs: Dutton Goldfield Russian River Valley 2005, Gary Farrell Russian River Valley 2005, and Hartford Court Land's Edge Vineyards Sonoma Coast 2005. While the wines were pretty remarkable and the food was exceptional, I still wonder whether or not the pairing was as successful.

Look out for a posting on Malbecs soon!

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Santadi Monica di Sardegna "Antigua" 2004

From one of Sardegna's great cooperatives comes this blend of 85% Monica di Sardegna and 15% Carignano (both, along with Cannonau, originally from Spain). Ruby red to purple in color; earthy aromas of cherries and blackberries with hints of camphor; palate of blueberries with a peppery spice quality like an Australian Shiraz. Bright acidity and well structured with a soft finish. Very interesting, great value.

Monday, December 24, 2007

Puglia 3: Food & Wine

In the old-town section of Bisceglie you'll be lucky if you find a phenomenal restaurant or "grigleria" named Enosteria. There is no way we ever would have found this place if it had not been highly recommended to us. The first time we walked by -during siesta- large wooden doors covered up the entrance and all signage making it nearly impossible to discern as a restaurant. But after 8 or 9 in the evening the little establishment and Giovanni, its hip, young entrepreneurial owner, came alive. With no more than eight tables, a small kitchen, and a fireplace used for grilling meats, this place redefined intimate. Amazingly enough, Giovanni was not only the owner, maitre'd, server, and sommelier, but he also grilled all of the meats over the fire in the back of the dining room. We proceeded to have one of the longest, most intricate, and most wonderful meals of our lives. Many of Puglia's regional food and wine specialties were interwoven through this 4 hour and 11 course gastronomical adventure.

1- Olives (Puglian olives are incredible!)
2- Crostini w/ ricotta crema
3- Cannellini beans w/ ripini (broccoli rabe)
4- Agrodolce (sweet & sour) peppers
5- Zucchini Ripieni(stuffed) w/ potatoe souffle & balsamico
6- Fava mash w/ chicory greens
7- Artichokes w/ oven-dried tomatoes
8- Carne Misti: Vitello (veal) Filetto, Pork Involtini (rolled w/ Prosciutto), Manza (beef) Kebabs, and Horse Sausage
9- Carroti Crudi w/ olive oil
10- Mixed Nuts
11- Dolci: Molten chocolate cake & Panna Cotta

While the wines accompanying our meal at Enosteria were phenomenal ( a Primitivo named Violante, a Nero di Troia from Rivera, a Moscato di Trani, and a mint-green Amaro), the best wine we had in Puglia was probably Santa Lucia's 1996 Riserva Le More. Worth noting, the other wines deserving the most accolade were the 2000 and 2001 vintages of the same wine. But I was ultimately most interested in the 1996 because of its character and story.

These were my notes taken at the winery on the Santa Lucia Riserva Le More 1996: 85% Uva di Troia and 15% Malbec. All Slavonian, no barrique. Well aged, feminine, and elegant. Perhaps past its prime a little. "No longer a boxer, but a gentleman" -Roberto Perone Capone (owner). Still quite beautiful and natural - just the fruit before the fancy technology and before barrique. 50 bottles remaining.

I found this wine most interesting because I had the immediate pleasure of tasting a half dozen subsequent vintages from the bottle as well as several barrel tastings. In 2000 Santa Lucia began to age their riserva wine in barrique and in 2001 the Le More became 100% Uva di Troia with a half year longer in barrique. The opportunity to compare and contrast so closely and to do so with the owner/winemaker was the highlight to my trip as well as my career. While the heralded, drink-now 2000 vintage and the well-structured, ageworthy 2001 vintage were exceptional, I found the 1996 more nuanced, feminine, well-balanced and stylistically traditional. I had never experienced Uva di Troia like this, certainly not blended with Malbec. As we were leaving Santa Lucia, eight hours after our scheduled appointment, Roberto surprised me with one of his last fifty bottles. I was blown away. And I hope to be blown away again soon - I may drink it with Christmas dinner.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Puglia 2: Absolutely Amazing

When people ask me how my trip to Puglia was, and I quickly and assuredly respond, "absolutely amazing", it most often begs the follow-up question of "why?" My response is qualified, and it must be, within the context of my profession. I am fortunate enough to travel to Italy annually- each year to a different region- to visit wineries we represent at Trattoria Delia and to explore and enjoy the culinary and oenological landscape.

That being said, Puglia stands alone amongst many visits to Italy. There is something inexplicably consistent about the warmth of southern hospitality and it rings especially true in Puglia (the heel of Italy). Perhaps it is the slower pace of life or perhaps it is because Pugila is off the beaten path of the throngs of American tourists that visit Tuscany and other northern regions each year. Whatever it is, our hosts were incredibly hospitable. Our tasting appointments turned into all day visits with long walks through vineyard lands, extensive barrel tastings, and three hour meals with extended family. In Toscana and Piemonte we seldom had the pleasure of meeting owners or winemakers, the focus of property tours was almost always bright, shiny stainless steel tanks, roto-fermenters, and brand-new French Oak barrels, and we never barrel tasted. And we were certainly never invited home for siesta and multiple course lunches with the family. The whole experience in Puglia seemed so genuine. Owners and winemakers took the time to explain and point out the nuances of their properties and wines. Our experiences in their homes and with their families gave us insight to the rhythms of everyday life.

And the wines themselves, you ask. They were amazing too! For most consumers, southern Italy is a world of obscure, indigenous varietals that are difficult to pronounce. It was incredible to have the opportunity to explore this world and to taste the un-tapped potential of these ancient varietals. Tormaresca, of Antinori fame, is doing phenomenal work with Aglianico, Primitivo, and Negroamaro. Run out and try their Masseria Maime (100% Negroamaro)- a three glass winner that will blow your socks off! Santa Lucia was my favorite visit yet in any region of Italy. What Roberto Capone is doing with Nero di Troia, an unheralded and ageworthy red varietal, is phenomenal. The problem is actually finding his wines in your local wine store. And Taurino, responsible for bringing international acclaim to Puglia, makes fabulous blends from Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, including the highly regarded Patriglione. Above and beyond, I recommend drinking a Rosato (Rose) next time you are feeling Puglian. Yes they are chilled; no, they are not sweet. They are dynamic, often spicy, and absolutely delicious with seafood.

Which brings me to food. If you love vegetables and fruits, Puglia is gastronomic heaven. Think broccoli rabe (ripini), chicory greens, cherry tomatoes, arugula, artichokes, peppers, eggplant, fava and cannellini beans, apricots, clementines, persimmons, figs, and peaches. And don't forget all of the artisinal pasta shapes beyond the recently famed Orecchiette, amazing cheeses including Pecorino, Stracciatella and Burrata. The seafood is so fresh and abundant and used creatively like octopus carpaccio, pesce crudo (raw fish), langostines, prawns, mussels, and clams to die for. And I certainly don't want to give you the impression that they don't eat meat. The region is known for its horse and donkey sausages, carpaccios, and grilled kebabs. And there is plenty of other amazing sausage, braesala, prosciutto crudo and cotto, and beef carpaccio. Don't worry- grilled meat is everywhere! Puglian cuisine is a quintessential example of what makes Italian cooking so special and so unique. First, it is about high quality, fresh, local ingredients prepared simply and in logical and harmonious combinations. Second, it is a celebration of diversity and the bounty of the land and sea.

While the hospitality, food, and wine of Puglia can only be described as "absolutely amazing", traveling as a tourist in Puglia is not for the Italy uninitiated. First and foremost, there most certainly is a language barrier. The quantity and quality of English spoken is nothing like it is in Northern Italy. It is highly recommended to at least speak and understand tourist or elementary Italian. To make things even more interesting, much of the Italian you do hear on the streets is in dialect, seemingly a different language than Florentine Italian. The good news is that, at least in my experience, Italians love it when you attempt to communicate in their language and are more than willing to help you learn your way. My wife's ability to speak French and my ability to speak German also proved invaluable when our Italian proved too cumbersome to express a need or an idea.

Figuring out where to stay, where to dine, what sites to visit, and most importantly, what their significance is also proved to be difficult in Puglia. From what I've been told, however, the tourist infrastructure has improved dramatically in the past 5-10 years to address this shortcoming. Lonely Planet is supposedly coming out with their first guide book on the region in February 2008. In the meantime, finding information on B&Bs, restaurants, and tourist attractions requires some internet savvy and a bit of patience. And ideally some friends who have travelled in Puglia to get you started. Luckily for me, my wife is a librarian and the owners of Trattoria Delia vacation in Puglia frequently. I highly recommend this website for accommodations. Reasonable rates for B&Bs and very affordable, delicious meals can easily be found throughout this region.

And my recommendations, you ask. Well, I recommend renting a fuel-efficient car and driving. You will most likely start your travels from Bari. While not too spectacular itself, Bari is very close to many wonderful coastal towns and ancient hilltop villages. A little farther away you will find Baroque cities and verdant nature preserves. We loved our time in Trani, Giovinazzo, Bisceglie, Castel del Monte, Minervino, Cisternino, Martina Franca, Alberabello, Ostuni, Copertino and Guagnano. We wished we had the time to visit Otranto and Lecce in the far south and the Gargano Peninsula in the far north. I guess that's what they made next time for.

In my next posting on Bottles and Glasses, I hope to incorporate some photos into my musings of Puglia and conclude my trilogy with descriptions of my favorite wine from our trip and the menu from my favorite dinner (11 courses and 4 hours) EVER!