Begali Valpolicella Ripasso "Vigneto La Cengia" 2005

The usual suspects from Valpolicella: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. Aged in large, Slavonian Oak barrels for one year. Bright red fruits, plums, and pipe tobacco on the nose; chocolate-covered cherries & blackberries and subtle herbal qualities on the palate with a smooth, pleasant finish. Not heavy handed and well balanced with great tension. An elegant ripasso wine from fruit grown biodynamically.

In Vino Veritas

People frequently ask me if all I drink is Italian wine. The truth is that I enjoy drinking wines from all over the world and I take every opportunity to do so. However, as the manager of an Italian restaurant with an obsession for almost everything Italian, the majority of wines I drink are Italian. As a function of my profession and my penchant for drinking, eating, traveling, and driving "Italian style", I have developed a certain affinity for and familiarity with Italian wine.

As for the rest of the wine world, I am a big fan of many wines and producers from the Pacific Northwest, I am very impressed with the quality of wines coming out of Argentina and Chile, Spanish wines continue to amaze me, and I love the white scene in Germany and Austria.

For example, I still have three empty wine bottles from Thanksgiving sitting on my office shelf that I've been meaning to blog about for a while. Every year I marvel at how limited and myopic Thanksgiving wine recommendations usually are. Every year it is the same thing: Pinot Noir or a Burgundy, Red Zinfandel if you are going to be uber-American about it, or perhaps Beaujolais Nouveau or another Novello. Sometimes I feel that red wine is forced onto poultry, largely because big, barrel-aged whites have gotten such a bad rap from the extreme, flabby, buttery world of California Chardonnay. Despite my efforts to convince my family that we should drink a big, aromatic white with our autumn feast, Pinot Noir won out. We had three, excellent, California Pinot Noirs: Dutton Goldfield Russian River Valley 2005, Gary Farrell Russian River Valley 2005, and Hartford Court Land's Edge Vineyards Sonoma Coast 2005. While the wines were pretty remarkable and the food was exceptional, I still wonder whether or not the pairing was as successful.

Look out for a posting on Malbecs soon!

Renato Ratti Barbera d'Alba "Torriglione" 2005

A beautiful dark red color introduces a spicy nose with hints of blackcherries and plums. Surprisingly full, warm, and robust with a long finish. With La Morra as its origin and eight months in French oak barrique under its belt, this modern Barbera is super-soft and accessible to all. The Ratti family's entire portfolio has proven quite exceptional.

Scagliola Dolcetto Monferrato "Da Sempre" 2005

From one of my favorite producers comes this perfectly simple and quintessential example of Dolcetto. "Da Sempre" means "as always" reflecting the everyday drinkability of the wine as well as the historical character of the wine - as represented by Maggiorino and Mario's grandfather (who founded the estate) riding his old school bicycle on the label. 100% stainless steel; deep purple-violet in color; aromas of violets and dark fruits; ripe plums, blackberry jam, and a hint of licorice on the palette. All held together masterfully by sweet tannins and surprisingly bright acidity for a Dolcetto. A phenomenal value!

Renato Ratti Nebbiolo d'Alba "Ochetti" 2005

A beautiful example of Nebbiolo from well-oriented vineyards nestled in the hills of La Morra. Delicate floral aromas of violets and roses, as well as vanilla; a palette of red cherries, dried fruits, tobacco, earth, and camphor. Finishes with hints of black pepper spice and soft tannins. Medium bodied, extremely elegant, and an exceptional value.